A kiwi Christmas

I know… What an opportunity to have a PNG Christmas, but with Jacinta needing a break from Port Moresby, the oppressive feeling in the air, and the kids having no Xmas presents – we made our way back to the in-laws for Christmas. And yes – a kiwi Christmas isn’t complete without the rain – so I feel even more trapped here in the middle of nowhere on a rural lifestyle block, and with none of “my” space…

On the flipside, the family was blessed at Christmas, with Xanthe getting a speaker dock for her iPod, Xavier getting an iPod, I acquired a Kindle Fire (yes – not meant to work outside the USA *bullshit*) for Jacinta – that is totally awesome, and I was very fortunate to be able to upgrade my camera to a new Sony NEX-5N with Dual Lens kit. So I have spent a lot of time (and so far 1000 photos) learning all about my fantastic piece of new kit. The photos that this camera produce are AMAZING with some reviewers putting in in a better spot than the likes of the Canon 600D. It certainly takes an awesome photo, and I can’t wait to really spend lots of time with it.

I have missed being in PNG, but will be back there on the 2nd January to start the new year with a bang. Having just read Steve Job’s biography on my iPads kindle, and connecting it up with one of my favorite tech books – Infinite Loop (also about Apple), I am in a really good frame of mind to tackle anything at work and really make a difference. Whilst I was doing my degree a couple of years ago (yes, I think life skills relate better to education when you have spent 20 years in the workforce), I talked through one of my mantra’s with the panel that were accessing my degree. It came from Steve Jobs: “The journey is the reward” – I need to get that back in writing and hook it up next to my desk….

Leaving PNG for such a short time, has given me a profound respect for the simple methodologies that we can deploy in countries where materialism is still just a word, and epidemics such as obesity can be countered by not westernizing a developing country, but instead creating its own worth in the world. The more we can mentor and provide the right type of assistance, the more people can assimilate what is wrong or right with other countries and people.

I read and watched with interest how politics within PNG can create separatism, but also marveled at how – when faced with a crisis most countries would riot over, the PNG people just kept on going. It is something the rest of us could learn a lesson or two from.

It also amazes me the amount of people I have met or have had contact with since starting this blog. Just before we left we had Anna and her family all the way from the UK pop in to see us whilst on holiday in Port Moresby – thanks Anna 🙂

And then there are the many other people…

Yes – I am in a very reflective mood – does it show?

And here is a photo of my not so baby anymore Xaria – just because it’s cute :), and a couple of Xanthe and Xavier – shit kids are hard to take photos of …. “stay still!” Have a very happy New Year – Aaron

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Potholes and fun in Port Moresby

Let me begin by stating; Lae is the unofficial pothole city, Port Moresby is a cheaper cousin, but much more fun! In Lae, you get potholes the size of cars, Moresby – just tyres 🙂

The kids love potholes around Moresby, I swerve to avoid – but sometimes clip the odd one, and after every rain there are extra potholes for twice the fun. For extra points, we hook up the hill behind town and hoon around up there – great fun. And when it rains… The potholes get lots of buddies…

So the last couple of weeks have been quite eventful, we are still living in a Hotel, Jacinta had a birthday, the kids started school, and I cracked 120 on the freeway in an emergency dash back to the hotel when Xaria fell off the bed, and knocked herself out. I bit of a drama, but she is OK..

Talking about car driving, the speed limit here is 60 km/h. Nobody drives at 60! It’s either 10 or 100. The police setup roadblocks to check registrations and collect revenue – they also drive at whatever speed they feel like, and there is no speed guns, or cameras – so if you have the balls, and a clear road, with no potholes… and you can do 200, they isn’t anyone here going to stop you!

Jacinta finally got her license yesterday, her first question: do I have to drive as fast as you? lol. – nope, but just don’t dawdle. In the wrong place, at the wrong time – you are an easy target for a good old fashioned carjacking. Here in Moresby, the saying “the faster you go, the bigger the mess”, translates to “the faster you go, the less of a mess”.

The other unique thing here in Moresby is the fun times you have, when the power goes out. As I am typing this, the power has dropped out twice. I have also just been about to jump in the lift, when the power died… So jumped out really quick! And at Brian Bell (home centre shop) last weekend, the power went out, just as we were about to purchase our goods, however instead of coming straight back on, it just stayed off. The staff put “counter closed” signs up, and they finally let everyone that could, pay by cash. Every PC at work has it’s own UPS!

We are still all getting used to the food, the heat (yes, it’s getting hotter now), the crowds, the cars, the buai (betel nut), the newspaper reports of rapes and murders, the political murmuring, and of course Island Time!

Above all the horrible things you hear about PNG – still, the people are amazing. And yes, although frustrating at times – I love it here….

PNG House Hunting – a beginners guide

Firstly, organize your budget.
Have a look online, LJ Hooker, Century21 and http://www.skerah.com all have listings
Ring the agents and tell them your wish list and budget
Be very clear about where you want to live
Be very clear if you want a family friendly place
Get someone from work (local) to go with you – cause their advise on location is priceless
Get appointments and meet the agent there, or follow them in your car. Don’t do what I did in putting my life into the hands of a man in a Toyota starlet – although it was fine 🙂
Take a camera – take photos!
Be prepared to have all your pacific island getaway dreams, with the palm trees by the pool, the pool boi cleaning and piña colatas – shattered.
Revise your thinking about what is important
Check for cockroaches and water stains from the roof leaking.
Look for dodgy wiring and 20 year old air conditioners.
Sit on the bed and wonder how how you can sleep with a spring digging into your back.
Realize the pool, that looked great in the photo – belongs to next door, and yours is way down the other end of the compound, and hasn’t been cleaned in a week.
Make sure you (or the kids) can’t fall off the balcony, or under the balcony…
Remember to check your location – if you aren’t OK living next to Koki Markets, then don’t.
Understand that for the next 3 days, appointments will be cancelled, agents won’t turn up, and you will see some
really crappy apartments getting charged out at penthouse prices.
Then, you will find your palace – don’t dither, another expat is on day 2 looking at crap apartments and very soon they are going to see your PNG escape.

Thankfully it’s not really the agents fault – they have, what they have.

And remember – it’s not called “The land of the Unexpected” for nothing!

The curse of the Highlanders

It’s official, I will never go to another Highlanders game at Carisbrook… They had the last game yesterday, in their brand new lime green jersey/strip.

I’m quite partial to it myself – I get quite annoyed when the crowd chant OTTAAGOOO Highlanders.. When there is only one Otago boy in the team, and it is really made up of three provinces – North Otago, Otago and Southland. So green for me – yup, no big deal, get rid of that blue I say…

The problem with me going to Carisbrook home games for the Highlanders, is that – I have never been there when we have won. So yes – throw your darts, toys, footy boots etc all at me. It wasn’t the lime jersey, it wasn’t the cold, wasn’t the coach, nor the players, or the ref, and not even the touchies… Yup it’s all on me. Thankfully, the highlanders will never lose at Carisbrook again! Let’s not tempt fate – I will ensure an All Blacks win over Fiji in July, by not attending. 🙂

PNG 20 Lessons

Lesson 1: If you need a good night sleep, drink SP Lager.
Lesson 2: Don’t open your curtains into a hot Port Moresby sun if you don’t want to blind yourself
Lesson 3: You don’t need the aircon blasting in your Hotel room, stick it on low and in the low/mid 20’s, that way it won’t be too much of a shock when you go outside.
Lesson 4: If you like a hot shower get up early
Lesson 5: Use your cellphone as an alarm clock, the Hotel alarm clock constantly blinks having reset itself with a power cut
Lesson 6: if you have the opportunity to pee – then pee. I think people thought I had a problem, always rushing off to the loo – but, I have drunk so much water, when the need arises, I don’t want to be stuck somewhere with no toilet.
Lesson 7: Don’t bag expats or locals. Not everyone is here for the dollar, nor is everyone a rascal.
Lesson 8: Don’t forget stuff, it’s bloody hard once you are driving to turn back.
Lesson 9: No one knows how to drive! Even if they do know how to drive, pretend they don’t. Pretend you are on a motorcycle in the middle of rush hour, and you are wearing no helmet and a pink tutu. Everyone looks at you, but nobody sees you coming. And if you get hit – you get knocked off your bike.
Lesson 10: Don’t be angry – with anyone, at anytime.
Lesson 11: You can’t say hello to everyone, you will never get anywhere
Lesson 12: if you have clean phobia’s don’t bother coming to Port Moresby, it’s a beautiful city, but very dusty and pride in Port Moresby’s appearance doesnt seem to exist.
Lesson 13: Don’t be stupid. We watched a young attractive expat woman walking down the main road in Town on her cellphone, with her handbag just hooked over her shoulder. In most places I have been to she will have had her bag snatched pretty quickly. Sean was of the same opinion, and voiced it straight away.
You don’t do that in many countries in the world, it is too much temptation. And the problem is, if someone snatchs her bag – they will get caught, and have the crap beaten out of them. All you have lost is your bag – because you were stupid, they get beaten up – because they were hungry and opportunistic and you were carrying a nice cream donut over your shoulder.
Lesson 14: Be polite and respectful. There is nothing more charming than chatting to the angry looking security guard for 10 minutes. We talked about where he was from, where I was from, Rugby League (state of origin starts this week), PNG and Port Moresby. To the nice man at the gate of the Ela Beach Hotel – thank you, I really enjoyed our conversation.
Lesson 15: Sometimes you have to say hello first – don’t be a sour puss or too afraid. (that has always been my number 1 rule of travel). It doesn’t matter who it is, I introduced myself to an American man at the bar on Thursday night, asked to sit at his table – he was having a meeting soon, and we talked. If I didn’t go up to him, both he and I would have spent 15 minutes alone.
Lesson 16: Panadol and Water, both for the heat – you don’t want to dehydrate, or wander around with a headache.
Lesson 17: Always have your car licensing and drivers license on you and up to date, we went through about 5 checkpoints where the police were checking rego and safety stickers. I was warned that they like taking your money and will pressure expat wives as they normally have money. They also pull over every cab driver. Andrew was saying that the taxi’s will flick them 20kina as a “tip” to be on their way. We watched a van go through the checkpoint, and it looked like it had done about 30 demolition derbys, obviously they had no money, so no reason to pull them over – cynical I know.
Lesson 18: don’t get to close to trucks driving the freeway. A truck ran off the bottom of the freeway the other day, and killed a couple of people. Then a bus smashed into the back of a truck on the freeway, thankfully no deaths. Remember Lesson 9.
Lesson 19: Patience. Be patient with everyone. Port Moresby is a melting pot of so many different cultures. Not only do you have the many different cultures within PNG, but there are Australians, English, Filipino, Canadians, Korean, Malaysian, Americans, Kiwi’s…. All trying to find their way in the Land of the Unexpected.
Lesson 20: If you see it – buy it. I know that this message has been done to death, but it is reiterated here. Something as simple as sugar, you are only allowed 1 small bag. So if you see it – buy it.

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